1. At this point the driveshaft has been separated from the transmission coupler by removing the 4 bolts/locknuts. This boat uses a 1-1/4" nylock nut to retain the coupler to the shaft, some boats use a 1-1/16" nut, also make sure to remove (if any) set screws on the coupler. Using the ARE coupling wrench (Item #2215) and 1-1/4" socket wrench we were able to secure the shaft and loosen the nut. You could use a board between the prop and hull if no coupling wrench is available.*Notice we have plenty of room to get the socket wrench into the coupler, some boats you will not have enough driveshaft length to get a regular socket wrench between the couplers. Consider Item #2216 or #2217 sockets with wrench flats for limited space.
2. We now used 4 pieces of all-thread cut about 5" long with nuts on each end and placed a deep socket between the couplers. Tighten the couplers together evenly and the coupler should pop off. Single taper couplers will not pop and must be pressed all the way off (mark where the old coupler was positioned on the shaft before removal).
3. Dual tapered couplers will slide right off the shaft, single taper couplers keep cranking. Make sure to keep up with your woodruf key or keyway.
4. Coupler removed.
5. Loosen the 2 hose clamps and remove the stuffing box and hose.
6. We have covered the end of the shaft with the supplied seal protector (gray plastic) to be sure not to damage the graphite o-rings when sliding the new seal onto the shaft. The seal is supplied with a cardboard tube to help keep the o-rings from constricting. If you have trouble sliding the seal onto the shaft insert a socket slightly larger than the cardboard tube and let it rest for a little to enlarge the o-rings.
7. Seal securely hose clamped in place with water supply barb pointed towards the direction you want to route the hose.
8. Coupler and safety collar back in place. Notice how the 2 couplers meet perfectly indicating good engine alignment (no more than .003 gap between the faces). If you have a single taper shaft usually the coupler will need to be heated in an oven to expand it enough for reinstallation.
9. Water supply line run back to the 1" hose from the exhaust manifold to the thermostat housing.
10. This engine was fresh water cooled and presented a problem due to the short length of hose going into the rear of the exhaust manifold. Raw water cooled engines wont experience this due to the longer length of hose and location into the front of the manifold. The supplied t-fitting had to be cut shorter on each end and a 90 degree elbow was used to make the bend needed. Also since the hose was at a low point on the manifold we ran a loop of the water feed line higher than the manifold to prevent siphoning the water from the manifold when the engine was shut down.
*If you have any questions give us a call (803) 345-0996*
